8 Tips for Choosing the Right Needle
8 easy steps guide the beginner or more advanced needle worker through the process of selecting the right needle for every needlework project.
If you choose the right needle, any needlework project will go faster and be easier. If you're a beginning stitcher, you may have been overwhelmed by the choices of needles, or you may not have realized what a difference the right needle can make. When I first started cross stitching, I had already been sewing clothing, so I thought I would have enough supplies. I bought a few skeins of floss, borrowed a pattern from my grandmother, bought an afghan and rummaged around my sewing box for a general purpose needle. What a disaster! The crosses were not the same size because the needle kept trying to split the fuzzy afghan threads instead of going neatly into the existing holes. I slogged through the pattern and got it done, but couldn't understand why anyone enjoyed cross stitch. When I told my grandmother about my project, she said "Good heavens, Catherine! You're using the wrong needle." When I switched needles, everything fell into place. My work looks much better now!
You can avoid repeating my experience! Just follow these eight easy steps and you'll be sure to have the right needle for the job.
1. Identify your fabric type
Tightly woven fabrics will require a sharper needle to penetrate the weave. Looser fabrics, even weaves and canvas require a blunt tipped needle. Blunt needles just "push aside" the fabric threads to go between them. Using a sharp needle on a loose fabric invites trouble. If you hold the fabric up to the light and cannot see distinct holes, you probably need a sharp needle, otherwise, use a blunt tip. Examples of a tightly woven fabrics: satin, quilting cotton, cotton or synthetic blends for embroidery (like tablecloths, pillowcases). Examples of loosely woven fabrics: AIDA, linen, needlepoint canvas, Congress Cloth, synthetic even weaves (Tula, Klostern, Monaco, Lugana and such).
2. Determine your thread size
needldpoint
The thread you're using will determine how large an eye you will need. Your pattern should tell you what type of thread you should use, and how many plies (strands) to use together. If you are not sure, consult a thread coverage guide. Many of the thread manufacturers have these on their websites. You should use the smallest eye you can comfortably thread for your projects, to avoid stretching large holes in your project. Crewel embroidery typically uses a single ply of wool yarn; Persian and tapestry yarns are used for needlepoint and use 1-2 plies typically; No. 5 pearl and embroidery floss are used for cross stitch in various plies depending on the fabric; No.3 pearl is normally used in a single ply for needlepoint. Ribbons, metallic, and blending filament will need larger eyes.
3. Be clear what you're trying to accomplish
This is important. No rules can cover every situation, so here's where you do some thinking. Are you working a design through the fabric? Doing surface embellishment? Attaching lining? Working with ribbon or cable? Adding beads? Regardless of your fabric, you need different needles for different purposes. A longer, sharp needle will be used to attach lining fabric to needlepoint. A needle with a tiny eye is needed for beading. Long needles are needed to get through thick projects, while very short ones are useful for quilting (a longer needle bends too much). If you're pulling ribbon, cable or metallic thread through a tight fabric, you'll want a needle, like a large chenille, that can make a big enough hole that the fiber isn't damaged while pulling it in and out of the tight weave. In this case, you might try a larger eye than you would otherwise use. So think a bit at this stage.
4. Select a type of needle
The first 3 steps help you decide your needle type. Here's an easy guide to follow as a rule of thumb, but remember to change size or type if your purpose is a bit different:
counted cross stitch and needlepoint - blunt tapestry needle; ribbon embroidery - chisel point chenille needle; quilting and sewing - sharps or between needle; stamped cross stitch or embroidery - embroidery needle; beading (attach beads to other needlework) - beading or milliners; crewel embroidery - crewel or embroidery needles; darning or mending wool - long or short darners; inserting ribbons or elastic into a casing - bodkin
5. Select the size eye
Once you have your needle type, it's time to pick a size. As stated above, use the smallest eye you can thread using the fibers called for by your project, unless there are circumstances suggesting a larger one. For needlepoint, the needle should drop through the canvas easily without forcing. The eye sizes are smaller as the number goes higher, so a No. 18 tapestry needle has a large shaft and a big eye suitable for yarn, while a No. 24 tapestry needle is shorter, thinner and has a smaller eye. I like to buy my needles in assortments so that I always have a selection without having a drawer full of needle packages. You can buy tapestry needles in 18/22 assorted to use for needlepoint, or 24/26 to use for cross stitch. Chenille needles come in 18/22 assorted and are used mostly for ribbon embroidery. The size 18 works fine for a 2 mm ribbon, and makes a big enough hole (otherwise, you might think it looks too big). Once you find a size you like to work with, stock up so you'll never be out when inspiration strikes!
6. Try it out!
Now you have picked a needle type and size. Get some of your thread and fabric and try it out. If I'm tired, I may go for one size larger so it's easier to thread the needle (so long as it doesn't damage the fabric). When I'm working right in the middle of a stitched area, I may use a smaller needle to make sure I can get between the existing stitches more easily. There's no science. Use what works. With a little practice, you'll be able to pick easily.
7. A little about brands
needlework shops
A cheap needle is no fun at all. Some of them are not strong and bend, some rust quickly. I prefer English needles from Colonial or John James. However, I use Piece makers chenille needles because they make an assortment that suits me. Any of these brands are good - I've tried them and can vouch for them. If you find a bargain on needles, feel free to try them out, but don't be afraid to discard them if you have a problem. It's only $1.00 for needles, but hours of frustration if you don't like them.
8. Needle Care
Try not to leave your needle in a good area of the fabric - even good ones can discolor with time, especially if your hands were oily. Store in a felt needle case or in a wooden tube needle case. Discard needles when they feel rough or don't pull through the fabric smoothly. Don't leave needles lying around! My family knows not to walk around barefoot because I'm always losing pins and needles!
To help take some of the mystery out of needle selection, I've compiled a glossary of needle types complete with pictures, along with some general usage guides. They're available with the full text of this article in the archived articles of my website. The link is at the beginning of this article. But if you're in a hurry to start a project, save the rest for later!
Happy stitching!
About the Author
Catherine Bracken is a lifelong stitcher and crafter. She and her mother founded a quilt store, a needlepoint shop and the successful online needlework shop www.discountneedlework.com. Visit her website for great stitching tips plus quality needlework supplies at low prices.
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